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mi hai salvato, ormai è da mesi che vado avanti con i fari che mi illuminano massimo 10m davanti a me haha e gli abbaglianti è come se non ci fossero

This is a great video. I definitely learned a few things I wouldn't have thought of otherwise. A few random thoughts: - the hose routing, but this has been covered - QJ orientation - good to know, but far from mandatory in most cases. Engineers factor the weight distribution when they design the jack points, they're typically shifted toward the heavier end. I've lifted many cars with the QJ fwd or backward, and they're rock steady either way. Orientation is usually dictated by where I want the power unit or hoses, which bumper is closer to a wall, etc. Still appreciate you calling attention to it, there may be some scenarios where it may matter. Just not usually. - the hockey puck pinch-weld blocks - I did the same to use with floor jacks, and I've used them with the quickjack, and they're fine for both. And I've used the rubber blocks on pinch welds and no splitting. I wouldn't glue them together though. Or just cut a groove in one face of the rubber block to accommodate the pinch weld so it doesn't split. - in the unlikely case of a QJ failure, it's not necessarily going to come straight down, so the jack stands may or may not be useful. I prefer to throw a couple wheels underneath the car alongside me, but out of my way. Doesn't hurt to have the jack stands there though. A couple tips I can add: - once its locked in place, you can remove the hoses if they're in the way - if you park on top of the QJ, the car can drip on them (esp. salt runoff if winter area). Consider covering them if you choose to do this. - ***ensure the QJ are parallel to each other when lifting***. If not, the blocks will try to roll sideways / may pop out. -#1 hack: add casters so you can easily roll the QJ under the car, around the floor, etc. Should have come this way from the factory. Can buy them for $350++, or many online sources showing how to add them for nearly nothing. I'll shut up now. Off to double check my hydraulic oil level!

this is the same problem Hyundai and Kia has. Did you find the culprit of the noise? Steering rack bushings?

the front dif is much darker than the rear. good to change the front more often.

Thank you for this video, very helpful

Thanks mate.😊 A well detailed explanation in every steps gives me more confidence to service my tucson for the first time.

This is a very informative video and I thank you for taking the time to make it. I am currently in the process of placing an order and your video helped me a lot. I have watched about a dozen videos and you explained it very well.

Do you really need to clutch in 5x? I've read only 1x is sufficient.

Thank you for the video, saved me a lot of time and money.

Your hoses coming off the cylinder are not routed correctly.

What happens if you don’t change it? will there be smoke/steam coming through vents and a lot of condensation?

Good on ya mate,I just adjusted the boys BRZ and after turning the shaft the wrong way to start with,it all worked out perfect.. Cheers Mark..😊😊

You have it setup wrong. Hydraulic hose goes under the frame so it doesn't get busted

Thank you so much for this video! I was having the rattling issue in my 2015 FRS and found out that this part might be the issue (and it was). Your video helped a lot when trying to see what parts were which, so thank you!

Ive been coming back to this video everything i need to do a coolant fillup or someone has a brz/frs that needs to do it. Best video for this.

Love my quick jack, thanx for the hacks

Greetings from Texas. Great video, man! You’ve given me the confidence to tackle the job on my ‘23 Santa Fe torque converter auto this weekend. 🍻🤠

Great video, ive owned my quick jacks for about 7 years now and love them. Definitely not a tool i use every time im working on something but nice to have when you need them. Good idea with the positioning of the jacks depending on vehicle mass. I usually set them up where i can pull my car in all the way and when it lifts it pulls the car/truck back away from the wall. I work on a lot of older vw's so the weight hanging over the jack vs behind it is a great idea. Ive also used the jack to lift the car sideways which quickjack actually put up on their facebook

According to the service manual - the engine needs to be running in park or neutral while you check the atf level. The ATF should be between 50-60c like you said in the video. You might want to check the level with the engine running next time. Thanks for posting the video.

An upshift blip and maintain throttle around 2000 RPM helps in my BRZ when cold.

Does this method get all the old clutch fluid out of the hydraulic lines or does some get left behind?

Thank you for the video bro.2024😂😊

Fucking yapper just get to a tutorial

Bro make both videos for the second gen please. Im a noob trying to do this

Right in the morning the first few shifts i just go from 1 to 3 and skip 2. Then by the time I get to the main road it's working just fine. So weird how it doesn't wanna go into 2 for me in the mornings.

Holy, thanks for the video I’m definitely replacing my tie rods first after seeing your results!!! Vibration noise in my frs seems to be from steering wheel area however so I’ll be back here eventually.

Appreciate the video man! Had it all broken down in about a hour thanks to you waiting on my new part to come in to finish up!

My bulbs look nothing like this in my 2015 scion frs. Lmao.

What do you mean 3 changes in a row? Like 3 changes in frequently in order to flush?

@peter - I’d love to send you some dosh as a thank you for this video, you saved me a LOT of money not having to ask a garage to do this - and your video made this incredibly approachable! Also had the nicest day working on my car with my dad, even if it did take about five hours because of that damn retaining bolt at the back!! Hahaha For the record, we worked awkwardly around the power steering motor without pulling the retaining bolt out fully - it was catching so much on the brake pedal top mounts and we didn’t want to risk pulling that whole pedal out. We managed to just about lift the EPS top off, cleared out the debris with a mirror and sticky tape to lift it all out, then replaced the top and just had a harder time doing up the rear bolt, less than a quarter turn at a time! On the plus side, despite wrenching that retaining bolt a lot in our efforts, we didn’t bend the clamp it sits in, and therefore reinstalling that part was surprisingly easy, with a little wiggling (which is easier with two people!) I managed to get it in and done up within 15 mins. Cheers Peter again for ‘giving me back’ my good old ‘86 which I can now drive with a smile on my face! I have never been so happy to see a road full of potholes in my life !! Hahaha You’re a legend mate Let me know if you have a PayPal I can wire you something towards a slab of beers! All the best Andrew

Granny shifting, not double clutching like you should

27.3 ft lbs of torque if anyone was curious.

Thanks so much for this video. It was a hell of a job but it brings peace being able to drive bumpy roads without my steering wheel sounding like a bag of marbles. 😂

I would change them between 30-50,000 miles.

Nice video, but how the hell did you fill that trans-axle transfer case??

Good video, Thanks. I just bought a 2024 Hyundai Tucson and appreciate the video!

I groaned when it was not your issue… it was my issue, and your vid was very helpful. It looks like the toyota part is hard plastic with rubber cushion inside.. so when the rubber goes, at least you still have power steering. The all-rubber part I used as replacement will likely disable power steering if it ever disintegrates.

Don’t mind me ask, Why the $””) did you remove the positive terminal first ?

Hey there mate, How did you manage to access “Oil Life” indicator percentage on the dash comp screen ? Mine does not have that

Is it the same for petrol sriv 2011

Is it the same for Chevy volt?

hi thanks Q: still happy with the cooler now 2 yrs later? how much degrees it cools ?

Well done, comprehensive, honest and informative 👍🏽

Just finished this! thanks heaps for the video, clear and easy to follow. For those planning on doing it like VL said I removed the brake pedal which made it much easier. Also remove the clutch cables at the same time as the brake cables. Thanks again!

Excellent video ….well presented…..

Thank you :)

Day 24 …. Just double the clutch between 1st and 2nd … solved!

Very well done. I really appreciate the detail to a tedious job.

how much fluid did you need for each? Is a whole 2.7L jug necessary?

I just bought one and I thought it was me!